Termites: An Overview

Termites are a fact of life in this part of the world (see a map of Texas showing where termites are prevalent). If you turn over a piece of lumber that has been in contact with moist soil for a couple of months you will see termites below it.

Locally, we have "subterranean termites" which, as the name suggests, live in the soil. They eat only cellulose (wood pulp) which they get from dead trees or potentially, unless you live in a concrete & steel home, from within your home's walls & ceilings.

Unless there is a dependable source of moisture (such as a plumbing leak) above ground, this species of termites must return to the soil daily to replenish moisture through their skin.

Exposure to sunlight is deadly to these critters (reminiscent of "Count Dracula"). Termites build mud shelter tubes on the edge of your home's concrete foundation & use these tubes as super-highways between the damp soil & the yummy wall framing.

Therefore, if you can eliminate hiding places adjacent to the foundation edge & pay attention when you mow, you can improve your chances of noticing an infestation before it is too late.

Still, it is a really good idea to hire a pest-control contractor (or licensed home inspector who is also licensed for termite control, such as Brent) to thoroughly inspect every nook & cranny of your prospective home before you close.

A termite inspection might reveal evidence of an active infestation (live critters), evidence of previous infestation (damaged wood or drywall), evidence of previous chemical treatment (indicates home may have had live critters in the past), or "conducive conditions" (areas that attract termites and should be monitored, altered, or chemically treated).
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Protecting Your Home

Treatments for termites must be integrated with proper maintenance.
Eliminate as many "conditions conducive to termite infestations" as possible following these five general rules.

Do not give termites easy access to the house:
Eliminate soil-to-wood contact. Install wood siding, doors, windows, and latticework at least 6 inches above ground level.
Support outdoor wood porches and steps on a concrete base extending at least 1 inch above ground level.
Do not allow any non-structural wood and tree branches to touch a house.

Do not provide termites with moisture:
Place gutters and slope yard so that surface water drains away from the house.
Be sure air conditioning condensation drains away from house.
Be sure moisture does not enter windows, doors, and siding.
Repair leaks of roof, gutter, downspouts, and plumbing promptly.
Ensure sufficient clearance between soil and structural wood in crawl spaces to insure adequate cross-ventilation.
Keep mulched beds and gardens 12 inches away from foundation.

Eliminate hidden access to a house:
Do not fill dirt beneath porches, terraces, or steps.
Do not extend stucco or foam insulation below the ground.
Prevent and fix cracks in concrete walls, piers, and slabs.
Do not disturb the chemical barrier after soil treatment.

Minimize the amount of wood available for termites:
Remove all scrap wood, form boards, and grade stakes used in construction.
Remove all wooden debris and cellulose material from under and around the house.
Remove rotten or destroyed structural wood with properly pressure-treated wood or non-cellulose material.
Store woodpiles away from house, and make sure they are raised off the ground.
Paint or seal all exterior wood.

Inspect your property frequently for termites:
If a property is to be treated, get at least three licensed companies to inspect the property. They will make a diagram of the property showing the proposed treatments and give you an estimate.
Ask for a copy of the company's bond, insurance, and contract.
Ask to see copies of the labels and material safety data sheets (MSDS) for the termiticides to be used.
Use the above information to compare prices and services.
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